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| Light bulp |
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| Pilot smd led |
Given this, i got the idea to start using leds. Leds have a lot more advantages.
* higher light output
* lower energy consumption
* longer lifetime
It concerns the " -Pilot smd Leds- " . This is a high quality led. During the time there are now improved versions available in many shapes and sizes.
After some
searching i found these led indicators.
They can be mounted on a mirror of a Grand Dink 50cc. It's the type
of Mercedes Benz look. The intention was to let them communicate
with the original installation of
the flashing system. The total
power consumption of these led
lights set, is lower than 1 Watt at full
light intensity.Each strip consist of 16 leds. The whole is plastic coated, and are watertight. The mirrors of a Grand Dink 50cc are shaped. The strips first had to be shaped by gently heating them with a hair dryer and bend them in the same shape as the mirrors. Once cooled, the strip stayes in its present shape. The adhesive strips where removed first.
Since this is an electrical update of a Grand Dink 50cc i measured with a multimeter the charging current and charging voltage of the battery. It showed an average of 0.5 Amps at 14.5 Volts. I used the measured values as fixed data to calculate the power consumption in Watts via using the “Ohms law”.
P = U x I
hereby P = 14,7 Volt x 0,5 Ampère = 7,24 Watt
In the topic " Using an multimeter via a 50cc scooter " i have explained about “Ohms law”. To keep the battery working properly during a ride, it needs 0,5 Amps at 14,5 Volts generated via the generator of the 12 Volt system with an total of 7,24 Watt.
As long as one ensures that the maximum power consumption for additional loads as in this case, the led indicators, is not greater than / or equal to. . . . the maximum charging current of the battery, the battery voltage remain and continue to do his job properly while riding your scooter.
With these thoughts, i also chosed to change the original bulbs into "Pilot smd LED". Because they have a different connection, i went to a car scrappage and bought 4 used appropriate connections, some relays and a alarm switch at a small donation. Here I'll come back later on.
Here i disassembled 1 mirror. I thought the led strip could be mounted from the inside so that the finish touch would be better looking, in my opinion. Unfortunately the inside of the mirrors could not completely dismantled, and i decided to mount the leds on the outside of each mirror.
The wiring runs through the housing so that it is neatly concealed.
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| Coulage |
The position of the mirror blinkers, where first marked with a pencil. Then a small hole is drilled through the housing of the mirrors. The wiring is feed through the housing. Both sides of the mirrors and led strips are roughened (to give an improved adhesion), then glued with bison tix and after 15 minutes assembled.The entire rim of the led lights is finished with a transparent quality plumbing kit to give a nice and perfect seamless connection / transition with the housing of the mirrors.
And then. . . . . Thë end result. . . . . Running lights in Action. On the picture above, we see a symmetrical light reflection on both sides of the hood. My opinion. . . . the best update of my Grand Dink.
Part 2 of the entire project.
This is one of the original indicators. The original socket is removed.
Then the assembly. Fortunately the socket fits exactly into the whole because the diameter of the original and new socket were alike.
The original orange cap was also mounted back because the led lamp gives a white light.
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| Front |
Given the number of lumens of the led lamp, the light was not an orange color, but something between orange and yellow. Since the original orange caps are mounted back nothing has changed and so the original appearance of the Grand Dink is preserved.
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| Rear |
Both rear signal lights had the same surgery.
As previously described leds have a lower power consumption and are so low, that the original 3-wire automatic flashing light was not appropriate anymore. I replaced it by a 2-wire led automatic flashing light because i only need 2 wires. The third wire which is grounded, was no longer needed.
There is also a " -Piezo beeper- " mounted.
It had some advantages. If you want to make a turn the piëzo beeper becomes audible. If you pass a crossings such as for pedestrian or cyclists it appears that this group of fellow road users first look around and see and hear you coming with the effect that they no longer blindly crossing the crossings. It improves the safety of fellow road users. The traffic rules are observed.
The number of decibels from a piezo can be reduced step by step via closing the opening with pieces of insulation tape. The flashing indicators of the cockpit are also replaced by leds.
The next step is then the assembly of warning lights. This is achieved by a 2nd led automatic flashing light, a simple electronic circuit and the alarm button which i had already named.
The alarm button. This control ensures that all lights will flash. Also the mirror blinkers.
Diagram
LA 1 : Led Automatic 12 Volt 10 Watts max.
LA 2 : Led Automatic 12 Volt 10 Watt max.
Relai : Double pole 12 volt 20 Ampère, coil resistance 70 Ohm
S1 : Single-pole switch
S2 : Alarm button with 1 NO and 1 NC
D1 / D4: Diode 3 amps
The diodes have a voltage drop each of 0.7 volts. The coil of the relai has an internal resistance in parallel across the coil to short-circuiting any self-inductance. To protect the elektronic led automatic flasher.
The connection and operation:
Of the existing flashing installation the elektronic led automatic flasher is replaced by a 2-wire led elektronic led automatic flasher. It can switch up to a max of 10 watts. The original elektronic flasher is a 3-wire system which:
Black = Switched positive supply via ignition.
Gray = Switched signal wire
Green = Mass
The diodes D1 t / m D4 are used in order to create a one way direction of movement so that the mirror indicators independent of the existing installation can operate. The advantage is that the circuit in terms of price becomes cheaper. They cost only a few cents.
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| Controls |
If "S1" is switched on, the mirror lights are constantly burning and then act as running lights. They have no effect on the turning lights. If "S1" is switched off, the mirror lights flashes along with the existing turning lights.
If the alarm button "S2" is pressed the elektronic flasher installation will be deactivated. The elektronic flasher “1” takes over and the relai will be actived and all indicators will flash including the mirror led lights. As long as “S1” is turned on, the elektronic flasher installation remains deactivated. If the alarm button “S2” is pressed again, all lights will stop flashing and the original flasher installation will become active again. The whole circuit runs through the ignition switch to prevent abuse. “S2” has a light built in so you can see if it is activated.
The leds on the mirrors have now 3 functions:
1) Running lights
2) Extra turning lights
3) Extra alarm lights
Now a days electronic boxes are on the market which all previously mentioned features built-in. But they are more expensiv.
For all functions all leds light up at full strength. Also the running lights on the mirrors. The safety as a scooter rider and other road users are preserved. The system functions already over more than 2 years trouble free.
-View in Dutch-
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Go back to. . . . . .
My first scooter The radio on your scooter
New brake disk On vacation with your scoot
12 Volt socket on your scooter Checkup scooter GrandDink
Blue dash board lights 12 Volt charging system on your scooter
The installation of a scooter alarm Extra brake light
Led day lights Using a multimeter on a 50cc scooter
